2024 McDermott Traveling Fellowship Report: Croatia

From the moment we landed, we felt an immediate sense of comfort and safety, as the cultural differences were balanced by unexpected similarities. Our journey began in Dubrovnik, situated at the southernmost tip of the country. Believed to be the first settlement of the Illyrians, Dubrovnik’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site with a rich history dating back to the 7th century. However, in the 20th century, it endured significant destruction from bombing, taking about four years to restore the city to its original state. The historic Old Town was heavily shelled, but strict reconstruction efforts preserved the authenticity of its architectural style, contributing to its popularity as a tourist destination. Today, as you wander through the inner city, there are no visible reminders of the war, only the timeless charm of its ancient streets.

Croatian architecture is a breathtaking blend of ancient Roman grandeur, medieval elegance, and contemporary design, where centuries-old stone streets intersect with Venetian palaces, towering cathedrals, and cutting-edge waterfront masterpieces. Just 15 minutes from the Bosnian border, the small village of Vid became an unexpected archaeological site when a Croatian family discovered ancient Roman ruins in their backyard—the remnants of the lost city of Narona. Initially, the family secretly excavated the ruins within their home, but as they uncovered more, it became impossible to keep them hidden, prompting them to report the findings to the state. Although the idea of building a modern museum over ancient ruins might seem disruptive, it was fascinating to witness how Croatians are preserving their history while embracing modern practices. Today, a contemporary museum stands directly above the remains of Narona, beautifully showcasing the harmony between ancient heritage and modern innovation.

We observed that most of Croatia’s major cities, except for Zagreb, are coastal and located in the Dalmatian region. Split, surrounded by rugged limestone mountains like Marjan Hill, is home to the UNESCO-listed Diocletian’s Palace at its main port. Built in the 4th century AD by Roman Emperor Diocletian as his retirement residence, this palace is one of the best-preserved Roman structures in the world. Celebrated for its historical and architectural significance, it showcases a blend of Roman, medieval, and modern influences, making it a must-visit cultural landmark. Unlike typical ruins, the palace remains a lively part of Split, with homes, shops, and restaurants seamlessly integrated into its ancient walls. Split’s modern architecture contrasts with its ancient heritage, blending contemporary designs with historic structures to create a unique cityscape where sleek, glass-fronted buildings stand alongside centuries-old stone walls and Roman ruins.

Zadar is a city where ancient history seamlessly meets modern innovation, offering a picturesque coastline, rich cultural heritage, and vibrant local life. Historically, its economy was centered around the sea, thriving on fishing and maritime trade during the early Middle Ages. The city features a beautifully restored Roman forum and a modern archaeological museum, both enclosed by historic city walls and a park built in the 1800s atop old fortifications, providing shaded promenades and a charming café. Notably, Zadar is where Alfred Hitchcock famously claimed to have witnessed the most beautiful sunset in the world—more breathtaking than in Key West, Florida. It is also the oldest continuously inhabited city in Croatia, blending its ancient roots with contemporary vibrancy.

Pula, a historic port city once occupied by the Greeks and located a seven-hour drive from Zadar, stands out with its distinct culture and atmosphere, unlike any other Croatian city. The city is home to remarkable landmarks, including ancient temples, bustling markets, cozy cafés, and the iconic Pula Arena. Built in the 1st century AD, the Arena is one of the world’s largest and best-preserved Roman amphitheaters, retaining its complete outer walls. Originally a venue for gladiator battles that drew massive crowds, it now hosts concerts, festivals, and cultural events. Beneath the Arena, we explored underground passages once used by gladiators for preparation, which now house exhibits on ancient Roman winemaking and olive oil production. The Temple of Augustus, dedicated to the first Roman emperor, is one of the best-preserved Roman temples outside Italy, featuring stunning Corinthian columns and intricate 1st-century AD stonework. As my mom and I wandered through the vibrant streets lined with bustling cafés and local markets, we discovered historic sites at every corner, blending Pula’s ancient past with its lively present.

Zagreb is a captivating fusion of tradition and modernity, where historic charm meets vibrant urban life. Dominating the city’s skyline, the Zagreb Cathedral is the tallest building in Croatia and a stunning masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Its soaring spires and intricate facades bear the marks of history, having been rebuilt multiple times following devastating earthquakes and invasions. As we stood before its grandeur, the intricate stone carvings and stained-glass windows evoked a sense of awe, connecting us to centuries of craftsmanship and faith. Beyond its architectural splendor, Zagreb’s culture is a dynamic blend of historic Austro-Hungarian influences and a thriving contemporary arts scene. We wandered through cobblestone streets lined with colorful facades, stumbling upon lively street festivals filled with music and dance. The city buzzes with creativity, from world-class museums showcasing both classical and modern art to vibrant street murals that add a splash of color to the urban landscape. At the heart of it all is Zagreb’s café culture, where locals and travelers alike gather in bustling squares, sipping coffee and engaging in animated conversation, making the city feel both grand and intimately welcoming.

Modern-day Croatia demonstrates remarkable resilience in its urban design by preserving historic sites while embracing modern development. Through strict preservation laws, extensive restoration projects, and sustainable tourism initiatives, Croatia has created a framework that protects cultural heritage while allowing cities to evolve. Collaborating with UNESCO and the European Union, the country has safeguarded iconic landmarks and integrated them into the modern urban landscape, fostering public awareness and appreciation. However, this progress has not come without challenges, including the pressures of mass tourism, limited job opportunities, and rising living costs, which are driving some locals away. Additionally, the lingering scars of war continue to influence the nation’s collective memory and identity. Yet, Croatia’s architectural journey illustrates the power of conflict-resilient design, showcasing how a society can rebuild with purpose and preserve cultural significance amid adversity.

As designers and architects, we can draw valuable lessons from Croatia’s approach to resilient design. The nation’s recovery and ongoing healing process reflect the strength and hope of its people. Although Dallas has not faced the same war-related destruction, it experiences environmental challenges that threaten historic and meaningful buildings. By adopting conflict-resilient design principles, we can restore and protect our city’s architectural heritage while ensuring it remains vibrant and relevant for future generations.